Argentina

Summary

The world’s eighth-largest country, Argentina exerts a peculiar fascination. The birthplace of tango and Evita, the sheer diversity of its landscapes and cultures could fill many holidays. The capital city, Buenos Aires, is so effortlessly stylish that you’ll almost feel under-dressed, whatever you wear. Hang out in classic cafés or theatrical bookshops, and stroll along cobbled streets as you seek out the spirit of the world’s sexiest dance.The hotter, drier north of the country boasts vibrantly colored rock formations and the impressive Iguassu Falls; a long, long way to the south lie the vast, empty stretches of Patagonia, overshadowed by the peaks of the Andes. Walk on desolate beaches where orcas pursue seals, witness glaciers collapsing, and enjoy a true nose-to-tail eating experience at an asado.Ride with gauchos (South America’s cowboys) or take a trip on the oldest subway on the continent. Argentina is a superb country for a road trip, and features several iconic routes. Patagonia’s windswept spaces provided a hiding place for Robert Redford and Paul Newman (or rather, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid) and inspired Bruce Chatwin’s finest travel writing.From Ushuaia, the world’s most southerly city, the next stop is Antarctica. Ushuaia is situated on Tierra del Fuego, the land of fires, although the snow-capped mountains which surround it tell a tale of a different temperature.Argentinians are a justifiably proud people, and punch above their weight when it comes to polo and rugby. The national character is shaped equally by the urban sophistication of the capital, and the call of the wild that echoes through Patagonia.These are people with a real lust for life, and an apparent disdain for sleep. An afternoon snack sustains them until a late, late dinner – you’ll do well to find any restaurant that opens its doors before 9pm.It’s a place that inspires passion in everyone who visits – whether you experience it in the throb of the tango, or the thunder of thousands of soccer fans roaring on their team. In quieter moments, you’ll hear sounds that may surprise you: lilting Welsh and Irish accents in isolated villages, where the descendants of European settlers have kept languages and customs alive for generations.Towering over everything, the ghost of Evita, and South America’s tallest mountain, the 23 000-foot Aconcagua.

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Buenos Aires is a city that’s all too easy to fall in love with. You’ll be seduced by its flavours: superb coffee, impossibly sweet dulce de leche, and the unique take on hot chocolate known as a ‘submarino’. You’ll fall for the architecture: quaint wood-paneled cafés, the colorful houses of La Boca, the still glamorous subway and the beguiling pink Casa Rosada – yes, with that balcony. Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina.You might find that you do, when you leave. The lifestyle (once your body clock has adjusted) makes some sort of crazy sense – after all, who said that midnight is too late to eat dinner? The porteños (locals) even seem to do death better than anyone else. Yes, they have a stylish approach to the afterlife. A walk around Recoleta cemetery (also known as the necropolis or city of the dead) reveals that the grand old families of the city care an awful lot about who has the grandest crypt and the most impressive statuary. Pride of place, of course, belongs to Eva Perón.

Many destinations become popular because of a single attraction, and in the case of El Calafate, the lure is ice. Not just any old frozen water, but immense glaciers moving inexorably downhill, and eventually tumbling into the clear, cold waters of Lago Argentino.El Calafate is the jumping off point for visiting the pristine, spectacular Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Jagged peaks form a striking backdrop, but the main draw here is the Glaciar Perito Moreno, perhaps the world’s most dynamic ice field.Some twenty miles long, the glacier moves downhill at a rate of up to six feet per day. The ice overhangs Lago Argentino, and the highlight of any visit is watching (from a boat or viewing platform) as a calving happens – that is, when a block of ice the size of a large house separates from the face of the glacier and falls into the lake with an almighty splash.Perito Moreno is not only one of the world’s most accessible glaciers, but also one of its most dramatic, and makes El Calafate a must-visit.

Travel Information

Tap water is generally considered safe in main cities and towns, especially in Buenos Aires, but otherwise bottled water is recommended. If bottled water is unavailable then boil water for over a minute before drinking.Argentina serves up an exceptional standard of food, although choices can often be restricted to meat, pasta and pizza. Buenos Aires, however, offers a wide selection of culinary genres, with Japanese, Thai and Asian-fusion food becoming increasingly popular. Vegetarians may struggle to find extensive veggie options, but most restaurants do serve vegetables and salads. Outside Buenos Aires, however, vegetarians may be faced with quite limited choices. Wherever you are in the country, meat is the name of the game here, and if you fancy broadening your carnivorous horizons, then there is a weird and wonderful array of meat treats to get stuck into. The traditional Argentine parrilla (grill) is the very heart and soul of Argentina’s cuisine. Sample morcilla (blood sausage), chinchulines (intestines), or simply go for a slab of prime Argentine beef – all sizzled to perfection. Don’t forget to liberally douse your chosen meats in delicious chimichurri – a sauce made from finely chopped parsley and oregano, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. Those after an authentic and reliably delicious meat experience in Buenos Aires, try El Trapiche in Palermo, and Desnivel in San Telmo. For breakfast, head to a traditional confitería (café) and sample a few medialunas (small, croissant-like pastries) and a strong café con leche. In cities, fashionable resto-bars (restaurant-bars) are taking hold, offering more contemporary takes on traditional Argentine cuisine, and all manner of lunch options. A strong Italian influence means quality ice cream is also popular, and in summertime Buenos Aires the many gelaterias (ice cream parlours) are certainly worth making use of. In the evening, Argentines dine late – 9pm is considered early – and the feasts are typically massive.Argentina’s wines have flooded the international market in recent years, and are famed for their quality and value. Try a light pinot noir from Patagonia or an inky and smooth Malbec, and don’t miss Argentina’s celebrated white, the aromatic Torrontés.Around 15% is acceptable in restaurants as well as bars (unless you were dissatisfied) which waiting staff rely on to survive.

Argentina is huge, making air travel the most practical way to get around. Many flights are routed through Buenos Aires. Aerolíneas Argentinas (AR) (www.aerolineas.com.ar) serves many domestic destinations from its key hubs in Buenos Aires, Cordoba and Bariloche.Driving conditions in Argentina offer everything from excellent roads to rural traxks. A 4×4 is recommended if venturing too far outside rural areas. It is advisable that only confident drivers tackle Buenos Aires’ roads. Major roads are generally in good condition, although rural roads, composed of packed dirt, can become impassable after rain. The ‘A’ roads are the autopistas (motorways) and those labelled ‘R’ are rutas (roads) – tolls exist on all main roads.Visitors aged 21 or over may hire a car in Argentina. Car hire is available in most towns and cities, and many international companies operate out of Buenos Aires and main tourist destinations. The maximum speed limit on motorways is 130kph (80mph), 80kph (50mph) on one-lane roads, while the speed limit in built-up areas varies (40-60kph/25-37mph). Argentinians drive on the right side of the road.In Buenos Aires the safest option is to telephone a radio taxi; a reputable company is Radio Taxi Pidalo (tel: (011) 4956 1200). Taxis are readily available and can be hailed from the side of the road but make sure the metre is used. It is advisable to use recommended remises (taxis) – which can only be booked by telephone and have fixed prices. Passengers should enquire beforehand.Buenos Aires runs a cycle scheme. Register at www.mejorenbici.gob.ar for free, two-hour use of yellow city bikes.Buenos Aires is the only Argentine city with an underground train service, known as the Subte (www.subte.com.ar). The Subte has six lines and is generally clean, safe, fast and efficient. Access to the subway operates under the card called SUBE. You can buy the card at any point of sale and recharge it at the underground ticket offices. Overland urban trains also serve the capital city and its suburbs.Trains and trolleybuses operate in Argentina’s second city, Rosario. Colectivos (local buses) operate on main thoroughfares in all large towns and cities. Several rail companies operate in Argentina, including Ferrobaires (tel: (011) 4304 0028;www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar), serving destinations such as Mar del Plata and Bahia Blanca. Trenes del Litoral (tel: (011) 4554 8018; www.trenesdellitoral.com.ar) operates between Buenos Aires and Posadas, linking many little towns in the provinces of Entre Rios and Corrientes.