This medieval city was once the capital of Morocco, and is home to the world’s oldest university (founded in 859 – that’s almost twelve centuries ago!). The wonderfully preserved old city or Fes el-Bali is perhaps the most intact example anywhere in the Arab world, and its narrow alleys and archways are blissfully car-free.Donkeys and handcarts provide the only means of transporting goods into the medina, and the maze of streets and stalls can be confusing enough that we’d recommend that you hire a reputable local guide to help you explore.You guide can also help you with the time-honored process of haggling when – inevitably – you spot a souvenir that you simply must have. Fes is known for its striking cobalt-blue ceramics, and for high-quality leather goods.Traditional tanneries still prepare leather in ancient ways, and a tour of one of these workshops is a fascinating if rather pungent experience. You’ll need to take a guide with you, and perhaps pinch your nose in places!